all things are symbolic
by their very nature
and all talk of something
beyond themselves.
This appears at the start of a book called The Art of Setting Stones by M P Keane. In this book describing the gardens of Kyoto, Keane writes, ‘…in the garden, the clearest symbol of eternity is the rock…’
Whether it is in the garden or in nature, the rock has always held a deep significance in Japan.
By way of introduction and before explaining more generally what is known about megaliths in Shikoku, I’ll highlight one of the most impressive megalith sites in Shikoku, which can be found in the south west of the island.
Tojindaba 唐人駄場遺跡 is a megalithic site located high on a hill above Cape Ashizuri in the south west of Shikoku. It overlooks the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean that stretches away almost to infinity. Some times the water is deep blue and calm. At other times the full force of the ocean is whipped up into a terrifying mass of grey that crashes on to the cliffs below.
This group of granite stones is thought to ‘date’ from the Jomon period: that is between 14,000 BC to about 1,000 BC. (A rather unhelpful stretch of time.) However, pottery remains and stone implements dating across much of that epoch have been found in the vicinity, which show the presence of early settlers.
The magnetic orientation of these stones indicate that they were moved at some stage, but whether this occurred through glaciation, earthquake, volcanic activity (most likely) or by human effort (least likely) is unknown. Some of the rocks show signs of having been smoothed or shaped by human hand; some are rounded, others have a distinct geometric shape. However there was a time when the sea level was significantly higher than it is now so some are clearly shaped as a result of natural wave and weather erosion.
What is probable is that it is a mix of both large naturally sited rocks and others (the smaller ones) that have been moved by human hand and often stacked against one another. The early migrants came across this naturally occurring and dramatic outcrop of rock, situated in a prominent position overlooking the sea, their source of life. Undoubtedly it was attractive for some form of ritualistic gatherings, and other rocks were moved and placed to give greater form to the area. Add to this that the ground was likely cleared of trees and shrubs – unlike today – so that the stones had even greater dominance and presence. This dominance would mean that the rocks also acted as a returning landmark for these ancient people, fishing from their boats out at sea; in the early 1990s a group of university-based researchers were able to show that indeed light would reflect from them seawards.
Whatever their origin, they are an awe-inspiring place to visit and, if you want to so wish, you can imagine that maidens danced among the stones praying for the safety of fisherman and, in the cold winter as the mists descended, perhaps the gods swirled around the stones to warn against hubris.
The site also comprises a henge area lower down the hill that was man made but, in that annoying Japanese way, it was bulldozed flat in 1997 by the local government to make way for a car park, and a circle of small stones removed. However, whether these were an ancient feature is open to doubt.
These mystical places are often said to be ‘power spots’ and visitors will go to feel and absorb the energy that, is claimed, can be found there. The stones can be hugged tightly; they can be lain on; people run their hands over the smooth surface. Whether there is any truth in power spots, only the individual will know as they seem to be a relatively recent phenomena created for somewhat commercial purposes. On the other hand it is known that Buddhist monks in the Heian period, would walk coastal paths in Shikoku, and come to place such as this to find peace, solitude, and to connect with their gods.
On a more everyday level, close by there is a very good onsen that overlooks the Pacific: the Ashizuri Onsen.
In Japanese, ‘megalith’ is usually written as 巨石, the two characters meaning great stone. Because of Japan’s turbulent geological and explosive history it is a country that is scattered with a large number of exposed stones across the landscape. In other words larger stones are common, and perhaps more common than anywhere else in the world.
The power of great stones are embedded in the earliest forms of worship in Japan and were carried into the animistic Shinto religion. Some of the megalith sites evolved into sites for Shinto shrines. This gives special credence to the spiritual force that inhabits the stones themselves; stones that are seen as a link between the earth and whatever exists in the cosmos including the kami. Here, around the rock, people would gather and chant their prayers, perhaps in some instances worshiping the rock itself. Stories and legends built up about the stones. Some were thought to be able to give birth to other stones or that they grew larger with age. In the aforementioned Heian Period, there is a story about a virgin who gave birth to two stones.
These rocks too act also as beacons that guide the spirits back to earth.
And it was perhaps their size, shape and wonderment as to why they could be found in what often might seem to be impossible positions, that they created a sense of awe. Yorishiro is the name given in Japanese to such objects that forge a link with kami. They are not the only objects that take on such a role but they are likely to have been the first.
A few megaliths can be the remains of kofun or burial cairns that date back to a period between the 3rd and 7th centuries AD but I believe that those on higher land, in commanding positions, are more likely to be sacred areas where rituals took place and man interacted with the gods.
Perhaps not surprisingly in a country wracked by earthquakes and volcanic eruptions, megaliths can fall into two broad groups: large rocks and boulders that occur naturally but which man has adopted for spiritual purposes; and those that have been moved by man. Within both groups there are those that have been left in their natural state while others have had some degree of work done on them.
Megaliths may also be found in groups but individual stones also are thought to have spiritual power and connections: these might be found in both temples and shrines but can also be found in isolation in the countryside but often now their original purpose is long lost.
My other three sites can be found in Kagawa or more specifically around the town of Uta-zu 宇多津町.
The Ubushina Shrine encloses an ancient ritual site sitting on top of a low hill in the older part of the town. In the vicinity are two other sites both on much higher ground and I have often wondered if without the dense canopy of trees that hide them all would be visible to one another and would hence form a deliberate grouping.
To reach the Ubushina Shrine requires walking up a steep set of stone stairs. The shrine itself is known to be ancient and in one form or another is over 2,000 years old but the current site probably dates from the 9th century.
The stones (in Japanese they are called iwakura) can be found behind the main hall of the shrine in a shaded glade.
The group consists of one large rock that has a thick sacred rope draped around it; these ropes (shimenawa) both denote a special place and, as noted above, are used to frighten away evil spirits.
Around this are grouped smaller stones. These appear initially to be haphazardly arranged, almost an untouched natural grouping but in fact they have been moved into a series of deliberate positions.
The rock is divine. I hug it. The stone is cold to the touch but I can feel somewhere deep inside a simple energy.
The second iwakura can be reached by car, unless the casual visitor wishes to make a steep and long climb. They sit on top of a plateau about 300 metres above sea level. (At one time, the sea would have lapped against the base of this small mountain but landfill has long kept the sea at bay.) The area is known as Tokiwa Park.
This set is known as yurugi-iwa (swinging rock) whose fascinating characteristic is that there is one weighing over 10 tonnes that can be moved by hand. How? It must be finely balanced on an underlying rock – whether this is a deliberate feature or accidental is open to conjecture. Or maybe this is down to a true hand of god. Infact this is not the only yurugi-iwa in Japan (there is another one in Gifu for example and one in nearby Okayama.) so I suspect it must be a man made feature. The alternative view is that the rock and the one it is balanced on were once a single stone that split through erosion leaving the upper portion balanced on a fulcrum.
However, it is known that a priest once said that a ‘good person can move the rock but a bad person cannot.’ Fortunately, it moved for me. It is also claimed that if you can move it, all your diseases will be cured.
Although the site is spread across the top of a plateau there is a scant view to enjoy as dense shrub and tall trees hem the site in. This is a pity as it would be spectacular, overlooking land and sea and would create an additional pleasure. The vegetation also clambers in an around the stones which makes it harder to discern their overall shape and heft. This too is a pity.
I also had to drive to the Mitsu-iwa, parking the car on a side road off Route 194, and clambering through dense vegetation before reaching the site. The three stones are grouped together with one balanced on top of the other two. This possibly does suggest a burial cairn but I think the stones are too large and they were more likely set this way to create a view through the middle. It would be nice to say that this view is of the rising or setting sun but sadly this is not the case at all. Indeed coming to any conclusion about the alignment is impossible.
Having walked through the admittedly large gap between the stones, I feel a sense of relief after emerging unscathed on the other side. The boulders have remained in place. I have not been crushed. Then I marvel at how this stability has been a constant since they were placed this way, despite the earthquakes they must have endured. In this they have a structural permanence very rarely found in Japan.
And how did who ever built this, get these stones to this position? With great difficulty, I say to myself. The site is found on the side of a steeply treacherous hill. Were they dragged up? Or were they lowered down from somewhere higher up? I suspect the latter.
A mystery. That perhaps one day I will unravel.
Some of the above was taken from my book about Marugame called, appropriately enough, Marugame, and available for free download on Apple Books.
Use this link to take a look:
https://books.apple.com/us/book/id973176865
Graham Thomas 